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This is a discussion on Inducing aerial roots to hide reverse taper within the Tropical Trees forums, part of the Bonsai category; Some of you, I know, are already familiar with the technique I demonstrated at the Ft. Wayne Bonsai Club meeting ...
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#1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Warsaw IN, USA
USDA zone 5b
Posts: 511
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Inducing aerial roots to hide reverse taper
Some of you, I know, are already familiar with the technique I demonstrated at the Ft. Wayne Bonsai Club meeting this morning. But others may find this thread of interest.
The tree is a willow-leaf fig, Ficus salicaria. When I bought it, three major branches were emerging from the same point on the lower trunk, and this had resulted in a bulge (orange arrow.) I removed one of the three immediately, but the bulge has slowly gotten worse. So I decided to try to induce some aerial roots to form on the trunk below the bulge (yellow bracket.) This, if all goes well, will result in more visual bulk in that area, and hide the reverse taper. I first made a number of wounds in the cambium with the points of a leaf-cutter. Then I rigged a sleeve of .4-mil polyethylene around the trunk, and filled it with long-fiber sphagnum. A couple of strips of ordinary packaging tape closed the polyethylene sleeve on the side and top. Two things to note, please. First, I used latex gloves when handling the sphagnum. Sporotricosis is rare, but infection is not impossible. Second, I used polyethylene sheeting for the "sleeve" because, according to research by the late Dr. J. R. Cody of Texas, polyethylene will allow oxygen and carbon dioxide to pass, but not water (liquid or vapor.) This is not true of all plastics, and makes polyethylene my choice for any project of this type. I bought a roll (as much as I'll ever need) for a few dollars, at a local paint store that sells it for drop cloth. I won't rush it, but I hope to see roots well enough developed by summer that I can repot the tree then. Veremos -- we shall see!
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Treebeard 55 Steve Moore http://hoosierbonsai.blogspot.com The most important bonsai tool is your brain. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Warsaw IN, USA
USDA zone 5b
Posts: 511
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Thanks, Dankone. We missed you Saturday; several people wondered aloud. Darlene asked me to write up a description of the procedure for the next newsletter; I'll give an update (if it's warranted) at the same time.
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Treebeard 55 Steve Moore http://hoosierbonsai.blogspot.com The most important bonsai tool is your brain. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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A bit "Windswept"
![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chicago, Ill.
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 1,051
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It should work like a charm as I've done it quite few times. I've always simply placed a plastic sleeve (cup), or even use aluminum foil as I did with my epiphytic ficus with a few holes punched in it and no problem whatsoever. Wow, I've never heard of Sporotricosis before! Hell, I'm not going to worry about it now as when I was young I used to play with Mercury and even handled pounds upon pounds of asbestos powder when I used to do some taxidermy with fish. Ignorance is bliss!
~Phil ![]()
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Please, always keep in mind that the typewritten word does not always convey what you wish to say, and to always treat others as you would have them treat you. Think twice-submit once. I started out with nothing....and still have most of it. "Its hell out there, give them hell back." ~ Prowler/Victor Gray 12/31/1943 - 11/24/2008 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Snipologist
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mid-coast Maine / Zone 5 and S. Florida / Zone 10
Posts: 89
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I used to go the huge ball of moss route for these "repairs" too. After endless hours of carefully picking it out of the resulting tangle of roots however, I just decided with too many of these type projects at any given time, life was too short.
I now just feed the area frequently with an organic lower nitrogen higher phosphorous fert and loosely tie the new roots to the trunk with string as needed. The optional wounds or the application of poly this or that including saran wrap, aluminium, foam cups or whatever else you have handy can still be used as they do help with inducing and humidity respectively. Personally, I prefer a little better air circulation like Phil's "few holes punched" in the material. For what its worth, I don't bother wounding. If there is any root production loss (especially on ficus) without moss, or even wounding, it has not proved significant enough for me to even notice. Call me Roberto Duran if you must but, "NO MOSS" for me! Cheers, Arty |
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#7 (permalink) |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 334
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We have a large natal plum at the Garden that we've packed with spaghum to induce rootage on, to fill in a part of the trunk that died. Another solution for aerial roots on a ficus is to put the whole thing in a clear plastic bag for a few months, but there you're going to get aerials all over the place and not just in one spot.
Sorry I missed the meeting, right now it looks like the next meeting down there that I'll make will be the spring show. I have to work every Sat. between now and May. -Centaura |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Warsaw IN, USA
USDA zone 5b
Posts: 511
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This tree has been throwing the odd aerial root ever since I built the Crate, and I'm sure would have kept doing so thru the winter. But I want to get a good spaghetti bowl of aerials in that part of the trunk by summer if possible. At 58, I don't want to spend longer on a project than the project really needs!
I hereby offer "spaghetti bowl" as the collective noun for a bunch of aerial roots.
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Treebeard 55 Steve Moore http://hoosierbonsai.blogspot.com The most important bonsai tool is your brain. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Snipologist
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mid-coast Maine / Zone 5 and S. Florida / Zone 10
Posts: 89
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LOL
"Spaghetti bowl" seems pretty darned accurate to me! In keeping with the gist of this thread... A couple of years ago a customer gave me a ficus as seen in the pic on the left since she was moving north and could no longer keep it. Her objective was to eventually grow the considerable root structure she had already 'built' into a single fat triangle of a trunk. This was about two years ago and I actually just let it sit there for a year while I made up my mind. Believe me, this is one instance in which I really wish I had two such tress for a definitive method comparison. I honestly did not really know what to do with it. On one hand, I could have continued the rooting in progress and would have been able to see through this framework of a "trunk" for (many) years to come. On the other, I could condense them all and actually make it a proper trunk from the get-go and carry out her plan of fattening from there. In the end, I opted for the second choice as seen in the middle pic from last season. Yesterday, I took the right pic after reading this thread and still don't know if I made the correct choice ~sigh~ Arty |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Warsaw IN, USA
USDA zone 5b
Posts: 511
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Sometimes you make the best call you can and go with it. Personally, I think you called it right.
One thing in your favor. As those roots, in the 3d pic, fatten up, they will close some of the little see-thru spots; and, their greater bulk will add to the overall visual bulk of the trunk. The eye will come to see trunk-plus-aerials as one object.
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Treebeard 55 Steve Moore http://hoosierbonsai.blogspot.com The most important bonsai tool is your brain. |
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