guesskoenig

Unfortunately on someone else's reccomendation and my own impatience I've already cut quite a few leaves off the tree to get them all to a relative medium size as compared to before. Since the tree was already trained into this curve and stumped so badly I'd like to bring up the branch to grow where the big cut is as you have reccomended, but I have never attempted that type of thing. Before I start training its limbs I was thinking of putting a small porous stone of some type under the base of the root ball when I repot so I can have a little root exposure to enhance it. Would this be a good idea?

Mortalis

When I first got into it I did the same thing. Worked trees to death.
Once you have it growing in some decent growing medium don't do anything but water it for 6 months fertilize every month if you use normal fertilizer or every week with something that contains Nitrate nitrogen instead of ammonia or urea.

It is quite easy with ficus. You just bend the branch up then bind it with gardening tape tightly where the bark of the points to be fused touch over 6 months to a year it will fuse together of its own accord no cutting needed.

When exposing roots make sure you do not expose any that are still tender or they will dry out and die. I would move it up only a little the first time you repot. If your talking root over rock style thats another matter. Here is a good explination. http://www.bonsaisite.com/root2.html


If your going to be growing ficus you can't go wrong reading Jerry's page.
The Art of Bonsai - Jerry Meislik

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guesskoenig

I do not intend to even attempt root over rock given the condition of the tree, I'd just like it to have a little air-root to add character to it. I'm only going to try and have a few milimeters of their beginnings exposed, just so you can see them going down past the moss I want to grow as topdressing and into the soil. Thanks for the tip on the branch, I'll do that when I can get ahold of some tape. Also, would it ever be possible to get it out of the shape it's in to try and tame it into an informal upright or slanting? I've never been much of a fan of the S curves in trees since it looks so unnatural.

Mortalis

Well if I wanted to get it into a shape without that S curve I myself would earth layer it. Not now but after it has rested for at least 4 months.

That is put it in a deeper pot to the point where the trunk shows only the movement you want. Make very small wedge shaped cuts where you want the new root system to grow and then apply rooting hormone to these. I prefer rooting gel to the powders. Now just care for your tree as normal and the next time you repot you should have new roots. Cut directly below and pot up both the new tree and the old base. Your old base will re sprout and you will have two trees.

At this time it is tempting to do alot to your tree.. its new and exciting.. Get another tree and play with it wile this one rests. Then another tree.. then another... then.... well now your into bonsai.. lol

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"I'm ready to meet my maker, whether my maker is ready to meet me is another matter" W.Church hill.

bonsaikc

Get your tree healthy before you work on it. Don't worry about leaf size until you have the tree about 90% of where you want it. Constantly cutting out large leaves slows down growth of the tree, and if you want a good trunk with proportionate branches, you have a bit of work ahead of you.

Don't worry, though, these trees are terrific and anyone anywhere can care for one or two regardless of winter weather.

Here are a couple of posts about my one ficus microcarpa (same as yours, I think, "Golden Gate.") Read the bottom post first.

Good Luck!
Chris

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