Air-layering Gardenia.

noissee · 05-11-2009, 03:02 PM

I've posted this Gardenia on here a few times, so maybe I'll try to figure out how to link to it...anyways...
I started an air-layer almost 2 months ago probably, and still no roots. So...I took it off and cleaned up the area, and this time I am letting it dry (I had not heard of letting it dry the first time i tried). My question is: after letting the area dry, do I make a fresh ring cut on the upper part where the roots will sprout? Or do I let that dry out as well?
Is it clear what I am asking? If not, perhaps I'll try to draw something.

noissee · 05-11-2009, 03:16 PM

Ok, I went ahead and drew up a crude visual.

A. is where the bark is stripped, and I am letting this dry.

B. is where the roots should sprout. This needs a fresh, clean cut, and I am wondering if I should cut this area, then let dry? or let area A. dry, then cut area B. right before I put the layer container back on?

Edit: I noticed my Letters were left out for some reason. "A" is the arrow on the left, and "B" is the arrow on the right.

Pup · 05-11-2009, 07:40 PM

Do not let dry out at all. The wounds should be moist so the sap flows.

The picture you show is OK but do not let it dry out.

Pup

Ps have a look at the post what kina ficus there is a link to an air layering tutorial

noissee · 07-09-2009, 10:49 AM

I peeked in the pot today, and there were little white nubs poking out at the layer site. I am guessing that I will be able to remove it in less than two months.
This plant was in the back yard before I dug it up, and its branches grew long and low to the ground. Every few weeks there was another branch ground layering itself, so when I dug out the main tree there were probably 20 ground layer clones left to hide the fact that I removed the bush.
Anyways, based on the way this species readily propagates, I estimate two months at the most before I can separate it.

A different question: what is the best way to make large cuts? For example, I have learned that you don't make a big concave cut on an azalea, but rather a rounded convex cut; which is opposite for maples.
Has anyone had experience which sort of cut works better?

noissee · 07-15-2009, 04:02 PM

BUMP

Still looking for input on the type of cut question.
Thanks

05-11-2009, 03:02 PM	#1 (permalink)
noissee Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: florida panhandle Posts: 206	Air-layering Gardenia. I've posted this Gardenia on here a few times, so maybe I'll try to figure out how to link to it...anyways... I started an air-layer almost 2 months ago probably, and still no roots. So...I took it off and cleaned up the area, and this time I am letting it dry (I had not heard of letting it dry the first time i tried). My question is: after letting the area dry, do I make a fresh ring cut on the upper part where the roots will sprout? Or do I let that dry out as well? Is it clear what I am asking? If not, perhaps I'll try to draw something.

05-11-2009, 07:40 PM	#3 (permalink)
Pup Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Perth suburbs Western Australia Posts: 405	Do not let dry out at all. The wounds should be moist so the sap flows. The picture you show is OK but do not let it dry out.Pup Ps have a look at the post what kina ficus there is a link to an air layering tutorial __________________ G, day I live in western Australia I have been trying for the last 20+ years with some success to grow Bonsai. I am a perpetual learner and an advanced beginner Last edited by Pup; 05-11-2009 at 07:44 PM..

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07-09-2009, 10:49 AM	#4 (permalink)
noissee Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: florida panhandle Posts: 206	I peeked in the pot today, and there were little white nubs poking out at the layer site. I am guessing that I will be able to remove it in less than two months. This plant was in the back yard before I dug it up, and its branches grew long and low to the ground. Every few weeks there was another branch ground layering itself, so when I dug out the main tree there were probably 20 ground layer clones left to hide the fact that I removed the bush. Anyways, based on the way this species readily propagates, I estimate two months at the most before I can separate it. A different question: what is the best way to make large cuts? For example, I have learned that you don't make a big concave cut on an azalea, but rather a rounded convex cut; which is opposite for maples. Has anyone had experience which sort of cut works better?

07-15-2009, 04:02 PM	#5 (permalink)
noissee Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: florida panhandle Posts: 206	BUMP Still looking for input on the type of cut question. Thanks

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