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This is a discussion on Airlayering a yew? within the Propagation forums, part of the Miscellaneous category; Has anyone here successfully airlayered a yew ( Taxus) ? A couple of years ago I bought an unstyled yew, ...
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#1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Warsaw IN, USA
USDA zone 5b
Posts: 510
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Airlayering a yew?
Has anyone here successfully airlayered a yew (Taxus)?
A couple of years ago I bought an unstyled yew, Taxus x media 'Densiformis', from our local club's inventory. It was growing as a clump in a nursery pot. Suffering a serious brain fade, I neglected to dig down a bit and make sure of just where the roots began; I assumed the nebari to lie just under the soil line. Serious mistake. Last year the tree was styled as a 5-trunk clump, and this spring it was time to repot. That's when I discovered that the "trunks" I'd styled in an S&R workshop were branches, and there were two inches of trunk buried beneath the soil line. Worst of all, there is a distinct knob right where the lower trunk splits into the 5 branches/"trunks!" ![]() I have 2 choices, as I see it. (I mean, in addition to repeating, "I will always check the nebari," 500 times.) One, I can try an airlayer right at that knob, and try to get a nebari to develop where I'd mistakenly thought one was. Or, two, I can completely restyle the tree. I prefer to keep the present styling. But I've never heard of a yew being successfully airlayered, and I don't know how well they respond to such an attempt. Does anyone here have any relevant experience? Any thoughts?
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Treebeard 55 Steve Moore http://hoosierbonsai.blogspot.com The most important bonsai tool is your brain. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Glen Rock, Pa. Zone 6b
Posts: 36
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Treebeard just so happens yews be my specialty. They air layer well, also cuttings are easy. They don't root as fast as a trident but shouldn't take for ever either. The use of sphagnum, a rooting hormone, and bag or bucket are the basic ingredients. Hormone strength is key with different Taxus cultivars they can take as little as .02 to 3.0 percent for Baccata. If memory serves me for your species .02 is need for male trees and .08 is needed for female trees. Best do the research though to be on the safe side as my reference isn't at my finger tips.
I would be curious to see the tree to see what choices you really have, care to share? |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Warsaw IN, USA
USDA zone 5b
Posts: 510
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Thanks much, Tom. Your reply (and one on "the other forum") have been very encouraging.
Now I just have to decide whether to stress the tree further with an airlayer attempt, given that I repotted it less than a week ago. (Put it that way and the answer seems obvious.) No pics at present: I'm using a public computer these days, and am not sure if they'd let me upload a pic onto their machine. I'll try, tho. You say that yews are slower than tridents; could you be a little more specific, please? How long could I expect it to be before I could depend on the new roots?
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Treebeard 55 Steve Moore http://hoosierbonsai.blogspot.com The most important bonsai tool is your brain. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Glen Rock, Pa. Zone 6b
Posts: 36
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Quote:
![]() I can't tell you how long for yours (Taxus x media'Densiformis') because I don't remember ... and no I'm not having a senior moment. I can tell you the following on the wide range of Yews. I have had some cultivars root and have been potted well inside a season. Some more difficult ones like Baccata take to the next growing season and by that summer they were separated and in a pot. I will stress that if it goes through the winter before separation make sure to protect it well. Those spaghetti looking roots are really susceptible to winter elements, even more than say crabs or JBP. I speak from experience learning the hard way ![]() Good luck and when you take the leap keep us informed. Last edited by Shady Side Bonsai; 05-28-2008 at 09:46 PM.. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Warsaw IN, USA
USDA zone 5b
Posts: 510
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Thanks, Tom.
Right now the tree seems to need a chance to recover from the recent repotting, so air-layering will wait until next spring. By then I may also have figured out a way to upload pics on a public computer!
__________________
Treebeard 55 Steve Moore http://hoosierbonsai.blogspot.com The most important bonsai tool is your brain. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Warsaw IN, USA
USDA zone 5b
Posts: 510
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Hello again, all.
A pic didn't have to wait until next spring after all: jump drives are wonderful things! Here's one I took a few days ago. The arrow (created courtesy of PhotShop Elements) points to the reverse taper. The primary trunk is center-right, thickest one of all. The tree continues to show signs of recovery stress, like lost foliage. All the more reason that air-layering will wait until spring.
__________________
Treebeard 55 Steve Moore http://hoosierbonsai.blogspot.com The most important bonsai tool is your brain. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Warsaw IN, USA
USDA zone 5b
Posts: 510
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Nine months later ...
No, no "blessed event." The tree began to languish last fall, and over the winter three of the five trunks died. The main one is alive, tho awfully peaked-looking; the second one is breaking new foliage near its base, but most of it is bare.
After that long, I can't remember anything I might have done wrong; my best guess is too much root stress too late in the season. I'll see if I can post a picture tomorrow. Now, of course, the question of restyling is decided -- assuming it lives.
__________________
Treebeard 55 Steve Moore http://hoosierbonsai.blogspot.com The most important bonsai tool is your brain. |
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