stowboy

Hi all, I've just landed as the new boy on the site and would like a piece of simple advice.
I have a Chinese Elm of approx 40 years old which has a hole in the top section of the trunk. This already has naturally progressed about 4" into the trunk and I wish to drill/carve further in until the front of the trunk becomes exposed/open and take this down to soil level. I intend to create the effect of a 'walk-in' old well rotted tree. The tree has lots of character and I feel will lend itself to this effect well.
My question is when do I begin to undertake this project (as in time of year) ? and how long should the work extend in terms of timescale for the job in hand ?

Thanks

Mike423

By saying the tree has a hole in the trunk am guessing you are referring to the tree having a Uro? Jin or Shari carving/work is usually best done on deciduous trees in early spring or late summer (except for some exceptions on a few species). As for how long it will take depends on the level of work being done and the amount of tools at hand. A picture of your tree might help to.

As a word of mouth though, if you are a beginner on this aspect of Bonsai I would recommend using a few unwanted and or desired bonsai subjects to work on. You could also use some pruned branches from a normal tree to practice on. While it is easy to actually carve on the tree it is often difficult to get the desired look when first starting. If you have a friend, club member etc.. that is experienced with carving and can give you advice or help personally that would be the best. Remember that Shari or Jins should compliment and flow with the overall design,shape and type of tree its being implemented on and not stick out or contrast the overall image or feel of the tree.

stowboy

Thanks Mike,
I shall practice on some peices of 'normal size' branch, sounds a good idea. Once I've done the work I'll post before and after photos on the site.
Thanks again for the advice.

artyanimal

If your tree is dormant I would absolutely wait at least until spring. In winter, it can not heal quickly (or properly) and the cold can and probably will do some very nasty and very unwanted damage.

Also, as an older and presumably nicer tree, this improvement is not something you want to approach without a solid plan. I would seriously consider doing some sketches or taking some pics and playing around with them in your computer's photo or paint shops first until you have a definitive drawing/vert that meets all your objectives.

Another alternative is that you post the pics here and get some feedback from others doing the same.

Finally, yes, Yes and YES, by all means, practice with all your tools before you start on your tree! Do this fully focused and with a purpose as if the practice branch were really your elm. When you can avoid slips, gouges and broken limbs on your branch (or branches) while also carrying out your plan effectively, you will have already learned a very important lesson. That being, to undertake your carving project gradually. In other words, your question about how long the work should extend was a good one. The answer of course, as you will by then have learned is:

as long as it takes!

Cheers,

Arty

stowboy

Cheers Arty,

Thanks for all that.
Early spring it is then. As you implied, being too enthusiastic and starting too early might be a disaster. I've had this finished image in my mind for a couple of years and each time I look at the Elm I can see it.

Pre-work photos is a good idea too. I shall also do some sketches and look really closely at the trunk to see precisely where to begin and end the carving process.

I'll certainly aquire a huge branch from somewhere and use it as the 'practice pitch' for my project. I'm sure, as you say, that I'll benefit enormously from the trial and error. The finished result will benefit too, of course.

I'll explore how to post photos of the tree onto the site so you can have a better impression of what I'm attempting. That's if I ever work out how to achieve that. Not a computer wizz, but I'll have a go.

Dave.

artyanimal

Dave,

I like that you have had this image in your mind for some time which, to me indicates some serious and careful consideration. Yet, you still sought to incorporate some additional advice. My early prediction then, is one of success.

One additional thought on your image though...and forgive me if this is overly obvious but, an older tree demands that if we err, it must be on the side of caution.

Before you begin it would be a good idea to closely examine the roots in relation to the area to be carved. These of course, feed limbs and branches above so the design in your mind's eye may need some alteration as you do not want to cut into your supply lines too much. On some species these are readily apparant and can easily be followed with the eye right up the trunk. On elms...not so much. Not always anyway. As you have some time left before spring a little more scrutiny of this little obstacle may prove well worthwhile.

Cheers,

Arty

stowboy

Yes, you're right. There are several things to consider before beginning the task. One is beating back the temptation to work too quickly and get to the point where you can see results, eager though we are to see the finished specimen. But I remember being told that "the only finished bonsai is a dead bonsai." Good way of remembering I thought.

I shall take it slowly in the early spring and do little by little ensuring that everything is checked before I commit to it. Certainly don't want to spend time cursing and recovering from errors.

Thank you for your time and advice.