nhamood

Hi all quick question.

My carmona bonsai was shedding quite abit of leaves and I water it just enough but it had been watered often recently so I pulled out the tree and it came out of the pot still attatched to the soil. I checked to make sure there was no root rot on some of the protruding roots but all seemed fine so I returned it back to the pot, the soil is peat.
My girlfriend said that by uprooting it like that this could kill the plant....is this true?

Mike423

If you didn't rip or tear a bunch of roots off I don't think I will harm the plant any (even then not much harm is usually done). I do the same sometimes when I feel the root ball has taken over enough of the pot, just to make sure the trees not root bound and doesn't need repotting.

I'm not familiar with Fukien tea Bonsai's as I have never had one myself but the problem could be stemming from over watering. Maybe someone with personal experience with this species could be more helpful?? I would also make sure its not by a vent blowing off hot too close to where the tree is, and a humidity tray would help if not already being applied to supplement extra humidity. Good luck

-Mike

nhamood

Thanx Mike, was just worried after I removed it from the pot. I have a humidity tray, I will get a bigger one and add pebbles to it. Do I need to add water to the humidity tray whenever it evaporates? Even though I had the plant for almost a week now was thinking of replacing it in a mixture of bonsai soil and other types of soil as I was thinking that the peat soil might keep too much water. Is this a good idea so early on or should I leave it whenever I plan to repot it?

treebeard55

I agree with Mike: unless you did some significant root damage, your tree won't die from being briefly depotted. (At the same time, good that your girlfriend cares about your hobby.)

Can you post a picture of the tree? That would help us give more informed answers.

Fukien tea is a tropical species, which doesn't mean it does well in soggy soil. How well does the soil drain? Are you letting it dry partway (to let oxygen back into the root zone) between waterings?

As a very general rule, best to let a plant get accustomed to a new site for several months before doing any serious work on it. However, Fukien tea is fairly tough; if the present soil stays soggy, a repot now may well be the lesser risk.

__________________
Treebeard 55
Steve Moore
http://hoosierbonsai.blogspot.com

The most important bonsai tool is your brain.

nhamood

hey treebeard,
the soil drains fine but as it is in peat soil tends to absorb quite abit of water, wat i will start doing is watering less so it does not stay as damp and letting it dry slightly more and see how that goes. I was thinking of getting a grow lamp as I dont think it gets enough sunlight, would this be a good idea you think?

i will post a pic up on it once i get my camera phone back from being fixed =)

Mike423

Treebeard is right, at most the soils should stay wet no longer than two days. peat is know for being water retentive and therefore doesn't make a good bonsai soil in itself. I would fill the humidity tray with water when needed as it evaporates. If you are unsure as to when the soil is dry enough be watered, you can place a chop stick in the soil near the edge of the pot, checking it every now and then until its dry, and use that as an indication as to when to water.

If you think you might need a grow light to supplement some extra light than feel free to do so. It definitively wont hurt

artyanimal

Teas are not really as fussy about their soil mix as they are about how that mix is watered.

More peat content in the mix does hold water longer and therefore, can be a rot hazard. It also causes more acidity in the soil. Generally, a neutral soil (probably best for teas) is achievable by decreasing the peat content either by mixing it with other organics, or even fully replacing it with the likes of compost, regular potting soil or bark chip as already noted. They all work fine together or individually depending on preferance. The slight exception may be the bark chip however, as I often include beneficial fungi when using bark to help break it down and assist roots in absorbing its nutrients.

With a humidity tray and depending on your normal watering cycle, your soil ratio could/should be 50% (or greater) inorganic to 50% (or lesser) orgainic which, you can then supplement with regular feedings.

I have healthy teas in full Florida sun, under up to 40% sunlight reducing shade cloth, and in a fiberglass greenhouse that get no direct sun at all. In other words, they are very forgiving when properly looked after.

Will try and get you pics of trees in all three conditions later today so you can decide which is 'better' as I honestly can not.

Cheers,

Arty

treebeard55

Another alternative for raising the pH of a mix is to sprinkle on some gypsum (available at many garden centers) and water it in. Lime will also buffer an acid soil, and adds a bit of calcium.

At your latitude, I would definitely give your tree supplemental light.

Otherwise, I have nothing to add at present to what Mike and Arty have just said.

__________________
Treebeard 55
Steve Moore
http://hoosierbonsai.blogspot.com

The most important bonsai tool is your brain.

artyanimal

treebeard55,

Not to split hairs, and you are of course, right about what would no doubt be the beneficial effects of lime or gypsum...

but, nhamood's comment: "...the soil is peat" was for me, an indication of...let's call it...way too much of a good thing.

Hence, my notion of replacement over adjustment.

Otherwise, I too, have nothing to add. hehe

Cheers,

Arty

sairaj

The ideal temperature for this plant is 18 to 22 oC. May be it is adapting itself to thrive the cooler season and that is why shedding leaves. If you could give some bottom heat and place in brighter part of your house or provide artificial light and save it from cold environment it can adapt well.