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This is a discussion on Scots Pine within the Evergreen Trees forums, part of the Bonsai category; This is my first attempt at training a Scots pine, so i am back to being a raw beginner in ...
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#1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: West Glamorgan
Wales
Posts: 202
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Scots Pine
This is my first attempt at training a Scots pine, so i am back to being a raw beginner in this category.
I have cleared the middle to allow more light into it, and i have pruned several branches, one big one, and a few small ones. The old needles have been plucked out, and i think i may have done enough for this year, but my main concern is the section of smaller branches, just below the apex. They all protrude from the same area, and i do not want to get an inverted taper, so next Autumn/Fall, how many branches do i take of so as not to cause this to happen. There is also a fair amount of growth lower down the trunk, now do i leave this, and look in the Spring/Summer when i do a re-pot. Please give some comments, and advice.# Best regards BD Paul Best regards BD Paul
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Old Chinese proverb says. Go to bed with itchy bum. Wake up with stinky finger. |
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#2 (permalink) |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Outside Sacramento, CA
Posts: 111
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I know zero about Scot's pines but if they are like other 2 needle pines I think you've got a big future problem with that whirl of branches below the apex. I could be wrong but I don't think any pine wants that many branches coming out of the same spot. A guaranteed reverse taper lump, in my opinion, if it's not dealt with.
That being said, how do you fix it? I'm not sure other than cut a bunch of branches off. Which ones? Ah, again not sure since I'm not very good about planning for the future growth of pines and I don't know anything about this variety. I'm sure someone with more expierience will chime in. I have a question about the right branch with the wire. Is the wire bringing the branch down? Creating movement? I can't tell what it's doing. Mary B. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: West Glamorgan
Wales
Posts: 202
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Scots pine
Well Mary B you are right about the wire, it is holding the bottom branch in place, and is just thick enough to do so.
I had a pretty good idea that the majority of branches just below the apex had to go, and i know that it is possible to rectify inverse taper at this stage, but if left for much longer it will be even more difficult to do. I will in all probability take a second look at the branch structure and decide which ones do not come from the same area, and then cut all the ones i don't want off. then i will leave it to rest, and recover from this years messing about, taking another look in the spring. going to post another photo when its done. Best regards BD Paul
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Old Chinese proverb says. Go to bed with itchy bum. Wake up with stinky finger. |
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#4 (permalink) |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: melbourne victoria australia
Posts: 155
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paul & mary worls need to be minimised to a max of 2 branches only. a third if its becoming the new leader or to be used as a sacrafice leader when grooming the other 2 back. if you have close internodes you will find 1 branch is enough and better.
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Antonio...... __________ Last edited by anttal63; 09-22-2008 at 03:56 AM.. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: West Glamorgan
Wales
Posts: 202
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Scots pine
I cleared a lot of the clutter from around the area in question, and gently removed some of the bark just to take the roughness of it, but i did not go down to the cambium layer, and petroleum jelly as been used to seal the wound.
At the moment there are two main branches, and one very small one left on there, but i think i have cut enough of for this year, don't want to do to much at a time. With all the work i have done, will it now be possible to re-pot in the spring, or should i leave it recover from what i have already done?. Best regards BD Paul
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Old Chinese proverb says. Go to bed with itchy bum. Wake up with stinky finger. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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What're YOU lookin' at?
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ottawa, KS
Posts: 155
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Paul,
Eventually the large upright trunk at the top has to go. Sooner is better, in my view. When you do cut it, leave a stub about six inches long. It will bleed less, and in a couple of years you can cut it back to a small jin. Style the tree around it. Baby that very low small branch, you must keep it for either sacrifice, design, or both. Look to find the smallest bonsai in there that you can. If you want a much taller bonsai, work with bigger stock. It's a nice piece of inexpensive material. Good choice. Chris
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#9 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: West Glamorgan
Wales
Posts: 202
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Scots pine
Hi Cris, its nice to hear from you again.
I know this is a dwarf variety of Scots Pine so it will remain small, which is exactly what i hoped for. I had a pretty good idea that the top section would have to go, is there any possibility of air layering this section. I have removed a reasonable amount of foliage from the upper section, to divert all the energy to the lower branches, but as i said i will leave any more work until next Autumn, as i feel i have done more than enough this year. Best regards BD Paul
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Old Chinese proverb says. Go to bed with itchy bum. Wake up with stinky finger. Last edited by bonsaidad; 09-29-2008 at 08:27 PM.. |
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