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This is a discussion on azalia buds within the Evergreen Trees forums, part of the Bonsai category; i was hoping to do a larger cutting. ones that are branching already. probably 3-4" long, or will that not ...
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#11 (permalink) |
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Maple Lover
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cheektowaga New York
Posts: 167
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i was hoping to do a larger cutting. ones that are branching already. probably 3-4" long, or will that not strike roots as easy. i did a much larger cutting from a brush cherry, and it went fine. azalia's a bit finicky?
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Experienced beginner
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Antwerpen, Belgium
Posts: 119
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Hi Jer,
Quote:
Nah, You can try that as well, but You'll need to thin out the foliage; I'd bruise the bark as well before dipping it into root hormone powder. You better plant it about 2" deep as well, and use a plastic bag or something similar to create the critical 100% relative air humidity. Also the high temperatures are very beneficial, if not necessary; Anyway: Variations to the theme are all possible, but the use of root hormone powder is quite important, as are maintained conditions of high temperatures and very high air humidity. If cuttings are that big, can't You use air layering techniques, cutting windows at the point where roots are wanted ?
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#14 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Zone 5
Posts: 114
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Hey, this threads a little old but I figured I give you a shout. I just rooted some cuttings from two azaleas I have this summer (red &white) along with a minagery of other cuttings. I think the easiest low cost way is this. I put soil (2 parts peat, 1 vermiculite w/ a little sand) or seed mix you can buy at any hardware store/nursery in a make shift humidity dome. The best thing to use is a container (with a clear top) I usually get a rotisserie chicken from Jewel or you can use a microwaveable "doggybag" take home container from a restaurant, anything with a clear top. Taller tops are better which is why I use the chicken one. spread out the moistened (not soaking) soil and take a pencil or chopstick to poke the holes in the soil that the cuttings will be placed in. Make sure you make the cut on the cuttings with as sharp a utensil as possible and that the cuttings have no more 2-3 full sized leaves on them. Take your cuttings and dust the end with rooting hormone and place them in the holes, and lightly pack the soil around them. Keep them in a location with good indirect light. It also helps if you have a heat pad to place under the cuttings (on low heat). I found this helps the cuttings root almost twice as quick. It can sometimes help to lightly spray the cuttings a few days later with fungicide to promote a healthy growing environment in the dome.
What Michel said will work but I like my way cause I think its easier, just a preference. One thing I thought contrasting about Michel's way though is that you should not have the laves touching a wall or top of the dome as this promotes the leaves to rot killing the cutting (learned from experience). If you feel the need to lightly moisten the cutting time to time just mist them. One more thing I usually remove the top to get rid of the beaded water. Don't know if it really help I just found thing work a little better doing so. I have rooted everything from Bougainvillea to Junipers this way with great results. Good luck. -Mike Last edited by Mike423; 11-05-2010 at 01:31 PM.. |
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