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This is a discussion on Japanese Maples within the Deciduous Trees forums, part of the Bonsai category; Hi, I have several Japanese Maples AKA Acer Palmatum ( I also Have an A. Dissectum). I've read the best ...
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#1 (permalink) |
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Tree Hugger In Training
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cheshire, GB
Posts: 801
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Japanese Maples
Hi,
I have several Japanese Maples AKA Acer Palmatum ( I also Have an A. Dissectum). I've read the best time to prune them is within a week of the foliage falling in the Autumn, is this true, and absolutely necessary? or will I get away with doing it in the Spring? -Matt-
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R.I.P Our Great Friend - Prowler, 24th November 2008 |
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#2 (permalink) |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 334
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I was doing reading on when to prune japanese maples, and I kept coming up with the reference of excessive bleeding when pruned. The fall pruning time was reccomended since sap flow is diminishing, and not flowing as heavily as spring when active growth is happening. I pruned my new japanese maple last fall, after the leaves had turned color, and sealed off the cuts. I did not see any bleeding from the cuts and think I am going to be good. I will see how the tree has faired come this spring.
-Centaura |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Springfield, IL
Zone 5b
Posts: 27
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I have several Jap Maples, although I haven't had them for long, I can tell you that from the spring through mid/late june they are very sappy. I tried to do a little wiring on one in may and the bark turn to mush very quickly.
Fortunately, I did this as a test one a portion of the tree I was planning on removing in the fall, which is now gone. There was considerable bleeding for several weeks, however, the tree did not seem to suffer terribly and due to the nature of the destruction, I wasn't able to seal it with the compound that I have. I think that minor trimming could be tolerated and bleeding controlled but I personally wouldn't try nor suggest more than a few clippings. Defiantly wouldn't do any wiring. I hope that my experiences help you. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Glen Rock, Pa. Zone 6b
Posts: 36
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Matt, Depends on what your trying to accomplish when pruning. Pruning in the winter will benefit you several ways. The callous for your pruned area will be thinner and not as bulbous as it will heal slowly over winter and into spring. Versus a spring cut were the growth is rapid and the callouses tend to be a bit thicker and rounder. While pruning in the winter helps keep sap loss to a minimum. Pruning in the spring when the meristem hormone is at its highest will benefit you with a profusion of back budding, vs. a milder back bud from a winter prune. A personal note here. I have yet to see a tree bleed out from a spring prune. In fact when using cut paste there is virtually none.
So the choice boils done to Winter pruning for structural design or Spring pruning for ramification |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Tree Hugger In Training
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Location: Cheshire, GB
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Cheers,
I did some heavy formative pruning just after leaf drop this year on most of my Acers, but studying them for longer without leaves i've noticed that theres some more that I want to get rid of, but alot of it is quite heavy growth, so I'll have to wait until next autumn then. cheers, -Matt-
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R.I.P Our Great Friend - Prowler, 24th November 2008 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Glen Rock, Pa. Zone 6b
Posts: 36
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PHP Code:
I have done before as I suggested. Obviously not the most preferable time, but it will work with proper precautions and be effective. However if your not in a rush and can wait, autumn would be ideal. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Tree Hugger In Training
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Location: Cheshire, GB
Posts: 801
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I think i'll wait, it means I can have to year to develop the other branches and do it in two stages, so while one part of the tree is being left to grow, I can have something to play with on the other half.
cheers, -Matt-
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R.I.P Our Great Friend - Prowler, 24th November 2008 |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Experienced beginner
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Antwerpen, Belgium
Posts: 119
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Hi,
Quote:
where most of us live (Northern hemisphere) = RIGHT NOW. Latest in early january they must all be done, coz' if later, sap stream will already - slowly - have restarted. 1 precaution though: When pruning, allways leave a stub on whatever You prune, leaving a safety zone for dry in and die back, and large wounds need to be covered. Greetz, Michel |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Maple Lover
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cheektowaga New York
Posts: 167
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i want to do a trunk chop on a j red maple, and 2 bloodgoods. is it a good time now, or wait till fall? i'd really like to get some new growth going this year. i'll post some pics of the 3. all have stupendous grafts.
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#10 (permalink) |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 334
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It depends on the species. I have one japanese maple that's done growing for the year, and others that are sending out a few new shoots. I still recommend waiting until fall or winter time to do your cuts, to keep bleeding down. You can try pruning one of your trees now, as an experiment, if you want to see how it reacts. But I don't recommend it.
-Centaura |
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