dulljeff

Hi all,

I've a carmona tree since January this year. So far I haven't had any problems, it was growing and blossoming, it seemed very happy.

But recently on one of the branches the leaves turned brown and fell. And now looking at it in a whole all leaves don't look as lively and green as before any more.

I've attached a picture of it, it's the right branch with the leave on the soil. Can anyone give me advice what to do or diagnose what the problem might be please?

Cheers
Jost

Attached Images

Keiko.jpg (98.1 KB, 31 views)

Mike423

There could be a number of reasons your tree is becoming ill, but before a more difinitive diagnosis can be given more information on the tree is needed. What sort of light does it receive, is the soil allowed to dry adequately prior to watering, when was the last repotting done, is the tree fertilized and if so how often and with what, etc....

dulljeff

Thanks for your reply. Today I called a local dealer who gave me a few hints to try.

Regarding handling the tree, I got almost opposite information from what I was told when buying it. It was sold to me as a beginner's tree whereas the lady today told me that it's quite sensitive and dies easily on owners.

Secondly I was told it shouldn't be exposed to a lot of sunlight whereas today I heard it's hard for it to receive too much light.

And thirdly, initially I was told to always keep the soil wet and today that was negated by telling me I should only water it when the inner soil (using a wooden stick to know) is getting dry.

She recommended to me as well to check the roots and see if they're okay. That I did and it seems they're fine. So I put it back into the pot and it's sitting on a windowsill now. Another recommendation was to keep it in a room that is not too much heated all the time, better between 15 and 17º C (around 60º F), so it's in the kitchen where I only put on the heating occasionally.

Finally she suggested to spray water on the leaves from time to time to maintain a "humidity" in the room. Fertilizing should be sparse in the winter time, maybe once a month.

Oh yes, since I got it I never used fertilizer as it was growing nicely without. The tree lady said it could be the tree used a lot of its resources in the spring and summer and is kind of depleted now.

So there's more information for you =)

What do you think of all that?

Mike423

Many stores will tell they're potential customers anything to get them interested in making a purchase or just simply like to take as if they know what they don't. If oyu were looking for a good beginner tree i would recommend a Ficus. They are the most forgiving when it comes to both light and over or under watering not to mention there are over 2,000 subspecies.

First off I would suggest that any tree that's stressed should not be fertilized sine it can stress it further. That being said if you were still intent on doing so I would use a very diluted amount( about 1/3 or 1/4 the normal recommended amount). Also keep in mind for future reference that even if we were talking about a healthy tree it is always best to under fertilize from what is the recommended dilution mixture. This is due to the fact that all trees, sometimes even different specimens of the same species react differently and have different levels of sensitivity. So while you may be able to fertilize the heck out of one you could kill the other by using similar amounts. Its beeter to under fetrtilse in the begging, you can always add a little bit as you go slowly until you think its a reasonable amount. Once every other week in summer once a month during winter will work best. I possible use a fertilizer with lower amounts of nitrogen during the winter.

The Fuken Tea tree is a tropical tree, you can give it as much direct sun during the day inside and it will eat it up. Just make sure that if you take it outdoors durring the summer months to get optimal sun (which you should) that you make sure to remove it or place it in a spot accordingly to keep it out of direct light in the late afternoon when the sun is hottest as it can burn up the foliage.

For watering sticking a chop stick twords the edge of the pot is a good trick for beginners. I like my way better which is to use my finger where I stick my finger in the soil near the edge about an inch or two. When the soil fells almost completely dry but still slightly moist its time to water. It takes a little getting used to at first but in my opinion is the optimal way to test for when to water. Watering is diffrent for every plant and watering should only be done when the soil feels dry in accordance as every bonsai is different due to soil mixture, humidity, heat, root mass etc.. even the same tree can end up having to be watered less or more often due to changing conditions. If the soil is keep moist for prolong periods of time the roots will essentially begin to rot and the plant will then die shortly after. I asked when the plant was last repotted because if the roots take over the whole pot the plant will become "root bound" and begin to struggle. Usually a good onset of this is when the soil has less water retention and permeability. A young tree should be repotted and root pruned on average every two years using at least one size bigger pot unless you wish to restrict the plants growth.

When talking about room temperatures while indoors any temperature is fine, the only thing to make sure of is that it doesn't drop below 50 degrees for a prolonged period or at all if possible. Make sure though that its not placed by a vent as this can dry it out and cause damage. Secondly when taking about tropicals humidity is very important to their well being especially during the dry winter months. while misting is good from time to time (make sure not to do so when in flower or it will rot the blooms) it does not give the tree sufficient amounts of moisture. The best way to produce a humid environment for the tree is by placing the pot in a drip tray or humidity tray (same thing) and fill it with water. make sure to place gravel or pebbles in the tray as well to keep the water from touching the bottom of the pot. Over time the water will evaporate causing a humid environment around the tree. If you are looking for a cheap fix for the meantime I would recommend going to a hobby store or Ilea and buy a small cheap serving tray (make sure it's at least an inch bigger than your bonsai pot). for the pebbles the size of your pinky nail or half that size is good but any size in general works. You can also mist if you feel inclined to add and extra boost in humidity from time to time. my mom also says she takes her bonsai into the bathroom with her when for humidity when she takes her long baths

Hope this helps and good luck. lotttttttsssssss of typing

dulljeff

Wow, thank you very much! That's a lot of great information, I appreciate your help.

I'll implement as much as I can, especially the tray is important I think. I'll let you know about the results.

Thanks again

Mike423

Yes the most important right now would be to make sure that the tree receives enough light and is not watered too often as well as supplementing a humid environment. If you feel that your tree isn't receiving enough light you can also buy a cheaper lower grade clamp grow light to add a little extra rays. I personally have two florescent light fixtures I hang over my Bonsai (while still by the window) to supplement a little extra light so that the growth doesn't begin to form in a weak stringy form due to the lower light spectrum during the winter. But I would wait until your tree recovers some before doing so if you were to consider doing this. Keep me posted and drop a line if you have any more questions or concerns

artyanimal

Fukien Teas are good beginner's trees as follows:

1) Their growth habit easily qualifies them as one of the best clip and grow bonsai available. In other words, since teas send out long single shoots with many leaves almost everywhere, a beginner can simply choose where to cut and thereby maintain very dense foliage pads with nothing more than a pair of scissors. As such, killing off entire branches as beginners are known to do from inexperience with wire is really a non-issue.

2) They can and will tolerate any of the same conditions that the afore mentioned (and recommended) ficus will with one exception, the Fukien tea actually likes more water. Please note however, that any soil (therefore roots) kept in both cooler conditions and in low light will stay wet longer after waterings and if unchecked, may be effected by all sorts of problems, namely, unwanted mold and mildew resulting in rot.

3) Assuming then, drainage issues are properly addressed teas can and do tolerate anything from full sun to fairly low light so long as said conditions are allowed to remain constant. Irratic changes back and forth are not good for any plant.

Finally, like ficus, teas are most happy in zones 10 or 11. 60 F is about the minimum temp for your tree and it would prefer to be kept much warmer at around 80 F or better. If you are using a forced air heating system and your soil IS drying properly, then by all means mist away as your efforts to create additional humidity will be appreciated and rewarded.

Cheers,

Arty

dulljeff

Thanks Arty, I only saw your reply now. It is much valued! My tree is struggling a bit but based on your additional information I'll keep it in the warmer area and see if it can recover.

Cheers
Jost

artyanimal

Hope it helps.

Cheers,

Arty