Aspire

Hello everyone, New to BonsaiCHAT and figured I would make my first post here. I have recently become extremely interested in the art of Bonsai when I was in Waterloo Ontario at a mall and found a Bonsai vendor (he was an older gentlemen...seemed to know Bonsai fairly well and was part of a larger Canadian Bonsai company).

So I was browsing around and finally picked my tree...a Serissa. Now when I got home I started to gather more information about the species and have figured out that people find the tree very easy and very hard to keep alive.

Now my main concern is, I do not know how to figure out if I am watering it too much or too little. Today I also went out and bought a thermometer with a humidity meter as well. I have it placed beside my Bonsai tree and now I see the humidity around it is quite low. In Ontario, Canada we are getting hit VERY hard with snow so our heating system is always on which does dry out our air, although we do have a humidifier built into the heating system, which is turned on!

The question is, is it too low? (I do intend on getting a humidity tray ASAP, after my surgery).

Here are the readings from the gauge: 21C Temp. 37% Humidity.

I appreciate any advice and/or criticism I get as I want to expand my knowledge of this fascinating pieces of living artwork!

Mike423

I myself Have a Serissa (foetida "tree of a thousand stars") and this is my experience. The tree tolerates hot conditions and I keep it in a full direct sunlit location outdoors during the summer. During the winter I keep it in a window on the south side of the house, where it can get the best light exposure possible indoors. Keep in mind that this tree can be quite finicky (drops its leaves easily) and dose not like to be moved around to much or over/under watered, so if you are planning on moving it do so slowly by slowly keeping it in its new location for a little longer per day for a week or two before permanent placement.

The tree likes a good level of humidity. I have mine in an over sized humidity tray, the tree also enjoys a good amount of misting as well (except when in flower as it will rot the flowers). The tree can be watered normally during the summer but likes to be kept more on the dryer side during the winter months when sunlight is limited and it is less active. Fertilize every other week in summer, and once a month in winter.

One thing that you need to be sure of with tropicals in the winter is that they are not placed in an area with a draft, or in a location near a vent as it can harm the tree or dry it out. Other than that as long as you have it in a humidity tray and make sure that the tray doesn't dry up, misting every now and then you should be able to supplement enough humidity during the winter months. For watering I use the finger method, where you can stick your finger (at least to the first knuckle) in the soil near the edge of the pot. If the soil on the tip of your finger feels almost completely dry with just a slight indication of moisture, its time to water. This takes a little time to master but if you would prefer there is a beginner adaptation where you can stick a chopstick into the soil checking every now and then until it appears dry.


good luck

-Mike

artyanimal

Aspire,

Mike423's observations are pretty much spot on.

There is an additional consideration that sadly, often does apply to serissa:

The soil may be a factor. Indoors, even with forced air heating, some very organic soils stay wet (actually soggy) for days. Unfortunately, growers often use the same generic mix for every single species they sell. Often these types of potting mixtures are not good for specific species. Ideally, serissa wants to be watered in the morning and then spend the rest of the day (and night) damp and drying. For some reason beyond my understanding, serissa--unlike--other plants, do not want to be wet (really wet) at night even though--like--other plants, that is when the roots do their work. Go figure!

In any event, watering a fast draining (bone dry in 24 -36 hrs) soil in the AM will produce the best results for serissa especially if you are misting often. If however, your soil is almost as wet by sunset as it was when your first watered, I would consult your vendor about his preferred mix if possible and find out when it was last repotted.

Note that a healthy serissa can be repotted in winter as this plant does continure to grow throughout the season. More so than similar sub-tropicals anyway.

If your soil is staying wet and pending your vendor's answers, you might then, have two options. One is to be more conservative with watering and misting and repot right before spring and the other is to repot now in a soil better suited to your plant.

If however, you find your soil is drying out quickly...uh...nevermind.

Cheers,

Arty

Aspire

Thanks for your advice both of you, and yes it appears the soil that is currently in the pot stays wet for quite some time (Probably 24 - 48 Hours if not more). The only garden place where I live is right around the corner so I may be able to find a better soil mix there.

Is there any specific type of soil mixture I should use? Such as that (moss) stuff (cant remember the name).

Thanks!

Mike423

A free draining mixture is best (where you can visually see the water pouring through the bottom holes as you water) that is comprised of mostly inorganic material. The mixture I currently use on most of my tropicals is comprised of equal parts:

Haydite (can substitute with coarse river sand or Chicken Grit)
Fir bark (Can substitute with Pine Bark)
Turface MVP
Red lava rock (great addition but not needed)

I also add a very slight amounts of Pete moss (but only a very minute amount) and some Limestone (if the tree is a variety that does not like acidity in the soil). Make sure all soil amendment particles are small (about the size of your pinky nail if not half that, depending on the trees size). Larger trees seem to fair better with slightly larger soil particles. Last of all I add some Granular Trace Element Frit in the mix, which supplements most micro and macro nutrients needed to make sure the tree does not develop any deficiencies.

All mentioned soil amendments can be acquired at nurseries (Turface at a sports store) or online through bonsai stores or sites like eBay. Most online Bonsai stores also sell soils already pre-mixed with the ingredients they find works best.

Aspire

Thanks for the advice! At the moment I am not able to go to my local garden nursery to pick up soil (surgery....) but in the next week or so I will or if I decide to I may order some soil off of an online store (if it looks reputable).

So if I get this new mixture, would I most likely kill my Serissa if I repot it? I currently live in Ontario, Canada and temperatures and snow are rampant atm. We do have an unheated garage (Not sure the temp) that I could repot in. Although my main question is....at this time is it too detrimental to the tree to repot at this time?

It seems the soil does stay wet for days at a time, but I am not sure whether this is due to overwatering or whether the soil isnt draining properly.

EDIT: So I was browsing around the web and came across a website that sells a few materials you list above. Although my main problem is its a lot of the product, I barely even need a total of a few ounces of each product (the pot is fairly small at the moment). I wouldnt mind getting 1gal or so of each product for later use, but the 5gal packages are probably just way too large.

I was looking at getting some of the premixed stuff though, here is the link....
http://hollowcreekbonsai.com/item32682.ctlg
They also sell Turface, which I could buy aswell and add it.

artyanimal

Yep, I was pretty sure the soil would be a problem. I can't tell you how many customers have brought me dead or dying serissas from elsewhere due to these same conditions.

I think you will find that once you have sorted out your suppliers for your potting needs that the actual act of repotting itself only takes a few minutes. For this reason the temp (during) makes little or no difference as long as you compete the task start to finish without delay and therefore get the plant back to its warm location quickly for its recovery.

If you are having trouble with finding turface in small quantities you might consider using akadama instead. It is often sold in lesser amounts at bonsia sites but is also quite a bit more expensive. One tree's worth however, probably won't break your bonsai bank.

Note that in a pinch, a very basic soil mix (70 % turface and 30% potting soil) may not provide every single element for optimal growth but it will keep your plant alive and in reasonably good condition until the next repotting time and these needs can be fully be dealt with. On the other hand, your current soil could and likely will, kill your tree, period. In other words, Mike423's advice is again sound, but remember some urgency does exist. Welcome to the art of bonsai which, as you are finding does cover more than just styling one's tree. hehe

As a reminder, always water your serissa in the AM. As wierd as this may sound, it is a plant that does not like to be wet at night.

Cheers,

Arty

Aspire

Yep! Thanks for all the advice everyone. I think that right now, with my surgery and the inablity to drive and my family being very busy at the moment I will order most of the components from the site below and sort of make a mix that will hopefully work.

My next question would be, what mix would be best to go for (off the site I linked previously) these items are what I would have to order in total, I tried getting the smallest amounts possible and I will hopefully try to save the rest for other repots. The second link afterwords is another potentially premixed solution although it does say its for Conifers, but would it work with my Serissa?

3.2 Qt bag Akadama Bonsai Soil mixed 1/10"-1/2"
1 qt Bag Haydite,hay1L
1 Gallon Turface MVP, tmvp1gal
1 Cup bag Micro Plus Micronutriants (link: 1 Cup bag Micro Plus Micronutriants)


1gal SHOHIN CONIFER SOIL with AKADAMA

Mike423

I guess either mix should do, I have heard of the site where both your mentioned mixes are located but have never purchased anything off it. This is a pretty good sounding tropical mix even though I haven't tried the mix myself I have bought the red lava rock from these people to add to my own tropical mix. I find that making mixes with a wider range of ingredients seem to usually fair better than ones with just the basic.

Website also has a link on how to mix your own soils if you are interested. I prefer making my own as you can save a lot of money buying each soil amendment seprately in bulk for cheap and then sifting and mixing it myself. If you have a bonsai show near you, dealers usually sell mix ingredients cheap so see whats in your area. I also find mixing your own concoction is best since you can find out what works best for your tree and then easily remove or supplement ingredients until you have your perfect mixture for you, matching your trees needs and your geographical location.

Aspire

Thanks for the link Mike, I think i may start off with that as I dont plan on adding any new trees to my collection for some time. Although I have another question regarding my tree. I have noticed as the days go by it seems like the leaves that are currently on the tree are starting to either fade or looking liighter green and some of them are turning blackish. I will post a picture ASAP but what would this be an indication of? Possibly under/over watering?